Lethargy is the devil and for the last week or so that is exactly what I`ve been battling, coupled with a constant feeling of unwell-ness. No, I`m not pregnant (much to mother`s chagrin) – I`m putting it down to a bad combination of diesel fumes and a wheat allergy that is enraged by the delicious freshly baked bread we`ve been having on the boat (what can I say – I`m a sucker for peanut butter toast). I haven`t even been surfing much I`ve been feeling that out of sorts.

A perfect panacea to my surf funk, this afternoon`s session reminded me why I love surfing: it clears my mind and makes me feel strong and energised. I really felt like I had the perfect board : wave combo and just had fun! I had time to think about what I wanted to do on the wave and going through my photos later was a good way to see how I can keep improving, what I should be doing to correct a technique etc. A good website to help you with this is Surf Coach, an Australian-run site with video tutorials that break down a move/turn in easy to remember steps.

here I was thinking I need to look at the lip as that`s where I wanted to turn my board. My arms should be up more too, I have a bad habit of them dropping down which doesn`t help with speed through your turns.

finally a wall to play with over a deeper reef – up until now we`ve been surfing really shallow, fast-breaking reefs. Makes a difference knowing you have more water underneath to break your fall.

looking where I want to go

a stoked muppet. must have been a fun ride.

*Photographs by Jade Rogers. April 2012.


  1. Fabienne

    Nice pics Danny, enjoying them!

  2. mariah

    i subscribed to a surf coach package last year. really like it overall- definitely breaks it down and shows good examples!

  3. oh i hope you feel better girl – keep up the awesome site……..

  4. feeling heaps better thanks Fi – am back in the bosom of family in NZ for a couple of weeks, happy days! Hope you`ve been getting good waves in Gis – if you have any shots I`ll put `em up…

  5. Surf Coach looks cool. Just signed up for free to check it out. Those suits by seea are a breath of fresh air. Ahhhhh that wave looks fun…

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